Sunday, April 28, 2013

Book Review: Wine and War: The French, the Nazis, and the Battle for France's Greatest Treasure

The authors of this book have a very interesting background. Don and Petie Kladstrup are writers who work in both Paris and Normandy, France. When these authors are not at work they actually work to restore an eighteenth-century farm and are currently replanting an orchard with rare varieties of apples. These apples are in danger of extinction and they are working diligently to help maintain this variety. Anyway- fun fact and it just shows how dedicated this couple is to preserving historic French vineyards and agriculture! Moving on....

Soldiers first arrive upon a mysterious cave filled with precious wine. This cave near the top of a mountain housed wine that belonged to Adolf Hitler. Nonancourt, the Sergeant who came across the wine cave with his fellow soldiers, was near a small town in the Bavarian Alps called Berchtesgaden, known as the "Valhalla for the Nazi glods, lords and masters". Near the "Eagle's Nest", Hitler and other Nazis (namely Goebbels, Himmler, etc) had houses and retreats they could escape to during the war. The town was also the destination where Nazis sent the looted gold,jewelry, paintings, and other precious items stolen from the places they occupied during the war. Hitler's Eagle's Nest was grand in scope and was a masterpiece of engineering. Down in the cave near the Eagle's Nest was essentially where Hitler put the wine he stole from France- tons of wine placed in a cave at the top of a 8,000-foot-high mountain with steep slopes and with planted land mines.


insane view for an insane criminal.

The book is incredibly informative as it reviews not only this story of the Nazis acquisition of France's beloved beverage (and ultimately the reclaim of this precious nectar). This book tells the story of not only the French wine growers who worked diligently to protect their vineyards, but the weinfuhrers who almost brought down he wine empire. Weinfuhrers is a German sounding word made up by the French to designate the men sent by the Nazis to buy French wine and oversee its distribution. These guys were pretty much the bureaucrats who oversaw Hitler's intentions to hoard and pillage French wine regions to help finance the Nazi war efforts. Wine was a very desirable and tradable commodity. Of course, France's wine was both of great bounty and quality. Man, it gets me heated just thinking about it! Boches (derogatory slang name given the Germans)!The tears of the Bordelais! The tragedies of the Champenois! I could only imagine how heart-wrenching it must have been to live like that. To be so utterly scared that one day a group of these weinfuhrers could threaten your life and livelihood and take you for all that you have. This book is a detailed account and story of five well known wine making families in France that had to maintain their wine stocks and their livelihoods during the Nazi occupation in France. I could go on and tell you about the crazy conflict, deaths (just a few), sorrow, and victory of this book- but whats really relevant is all of the specific wine references this books makes- especially references to class. Plus, I really had a bad week and don't want to dwell on the saddening and tragic parts of this book. So no worries, no spoiler alerts needed!

old wine from before the time of you know who's reign.

In this book review, I really want to drive home the principals that this book really helps the reader get acquainted with. I actually got a lot of refreshing details and concepts reviewed in class. The book discusses class topics such as Appellation D'Origine Controlee. The AOC regions, as Professor Boyer has explained, are the controlled places of origin. For French wine, this guarantees that the wine not only comes from the place listed (like Bordeaux or Loire) but also meets the strict standards of quality for that area. Example AOC regions referred in the book include Cote D'Or, which literally means the Golden Slope or Escarpment (this is probably the only time I'll use the word escarpment in a sentence). So Cote D'Or is the area of Burgundy between Dijon and Santenay where some of the most delicious Burgundies are made. Reading this book has really encouraged me to want to travel there. Both reds and whites are made in this AOC. The organization that's in charge of designating AOC regions, as the book explains, is the Institut National Des Appellation D'Origine (INAO- the acronym is exponentially easier than saying it in full blown French). The INAO is essentially the administrative organization for guaranteeing place of origin and quality in French wine. The organization is actually based in Paris (I'm actually fairly surprised by this), but the organization also has its most technical experts in each of France's dominating wine regions.


Burgundy- wish I could be here!
After reading this book, I not only was dumbfounded by how much French winemakers had to work to protect their vineyards from the Germans, but how they also had to work against mother nature! Its insane! For example, mildew was lethal to grape vineyards. Downy mildew was the worst of the fungal diseases that attacked grape vines during the 1940s. This mildew originated in America (go figure!) Downy or false mildew spread not by birds or bees or by water streams. This fungi actually was spread by the wind so it was difficult to contain it once it attacked a vineyard. Yikes, right? High humidity and heat are the two key ingredients that got this fungal disease started. Most American vines are pretty resilient to it. A treatment for this fungi is copper sulfate. Most American vines didn't need (and still don't need) copper sulfate treatments, but the dainty French vines did (and for good reason- this mildew was disasterous!).


The book also talks about the strike of phylloxera. Just as a little review, phylloxera is a burrowing plant louse that destroyed the vineyards of France at the end of the 19th century. Buzz kill! This was also another import from America (can't be all too proud of that). The cure also came from America though when the native American vine rootstock was found to be resistant to the louse. All French vines had to be ripped up and burned, with new vines grafted onto the American rootstock (amazing- we ruin the day and then save it. 'Murica!) Black rot is another fungal disease that attacks grapevines. This sucker leaves black spots on the green parts of the plant and causes the fruit to shrivel up. Black rot is most "virulent" in warm weather and high humidity. The cure for this fungal disease is a solid treatment of copper sulfate. The last one that we haven't covered in class was oidium. This is another mildew, but its powdery (more true mildew). It came from America and the best method and product to combat oidium was ground sulfur.
Girl you nasty
The book also offered some insight on different kinds of wine- not varietals but methods of wine preparation. Piquette, for example, is a wine made by adding water to already pressed skins and husks of grapes. "This wine is very low in alcohol and is usually given to vineyard workers as a daily ration," according to the book. Naturally, piquette is also used as a derogatory name for any bad wine (since water and wine mixed isn't exactly the most delicious thing- though I have to say that when I volunteered at Fork and Cork this weekend people were literally drinking the wash water to clean their red-stained wine classes in between tastings. Is it just me or is that weird!!!) Another interesting wine, or wine component, is dosage. Dosage is the sugar syrup made from champagne wine and sugar that is added to champagne before its final corking. Man, this stuff is probably really delicious. The amount added determines the sweetness of the champagne. The range of champagne is extra brut (extra dry) to doux. 
holla @ me. To the dome.

Naturally, the drier the champagne, the smaller the dosage of dosage (haha get it?) used. Vin chaud du soldat was also a popular reference in this book. Literally, hot wine for soldiers, was usually served at special canteens during the winter months. This was actually served as a preventative measure during the cold weather. Kits for making hot wine were also sent to soldiers at the front lines. I bet this definitely helped kill bacteria that lined some of the soldier's stomachs (you never knew what could have been hanging out in their stomachs after being at war and eating god knows what). Speaking of eating and drinking panzermilch was a soy beverage some of the prisoners of war got in camps instead of coffee or tea. Literally, panzer milk, the panzers being the German tanks that so effectively routed the French in 1940.

Wine Tasting Review April 22



Name: Bogle Petite Sirah
Variety: Petite Sirah
Region: California
Year: Vintage 2010
Country:USA
Price: $12.95
Wine critic review: Deeply inky, this wine coats the glass and lingers before the first sip has been taken. Heady aromas of boysenberries and blackberries headline the entry, while flavors of wild blueberries steal the show. Full bodied and concentrated, seductive juniper and anise tangle with coffee and leather tones as the wine's finish lingers on stage. Enduring and enthralling, this wine is perfectly suited for an encore. - Vintage Cellar, Blacksburg VA
Personal Review: Full-bodied on the entry, the heady aromas of black currants and plums on the nose. Not as pronounced spice as I would have expected. This wine would have faired better with a more smoky nose and bigger, bolder fruit. Needed more body and berry complexity. Minimal finish. Not impressed and probably would not have improved if taken with food. This wine was not taken with food.



Name: Ferrari- Carano Siena
Variety: Cabernet Sauvignon
Region: Sonoma County, California
Year: 2010
Country:USA
Price: $24.95
Wine critic review: Delicious aromas and flavors of fresh-picked blackberries, raspberry jam, cola, cinnamon and clove. Sweet oak notes of vanilla and butterscotch complement lingering tart cherry, cranberry, and strawberry. A wine with nice acidity and refined, elegant texture, SIENA has tannins that are showy and evenly coat the palate.
Personal Review: Heavy spice on the nose, jammy, oak notes, bing flavors of cherry, darker baked cranberry. Sweet oak notes of vanilla and butterscotch complement lingering tart cherry, cranberry and strawberry. A wine with balanced acidity without tart flavors, decent texture (fuller mouth feel), and pronounced tannins.



Name: Yalumba Museum Muscat
Variety: Muscat
Region: SE Australia
Year: Unknown
Country:Australia
Price: $22.95
Wine critic review: The non-vintage Museum Reserve Muscat boasts a medium deep amber hue as well as stinning aromas and huge flavors oozing with glycerin, sweetness, honeyed figs, jammy berries, and notions of tea, molasses, and prunes. This wine does not improve in the bottle, but it will last for many years.
Personal Review: This is a full-full-bodied muscat- this was literally a cup full of alcohol splashed around with something like maple syrup. I would like to put this on pancakes. high alcohol on the nose and the color is like black tea steeped for like two minutes. some other flavors of prunes and darker dried fruit. A very, very sweet muscat indeed. This would probably mix better with Scotch over ice rather than something served alone at room temperature. This was not taken with food but would probably pair well with something like a pound cake or warm angel food cake. 



Name: Veritas Saddleback Chardonnay
Variety:Chardonnay
Region: Monticello AVA
Year: 2012
Country:USA
Price: $22
Wine critic review: Light lemon yellow color; lifted lemon, lemon cream, apple nose; soft, tart apple, tart peach palate; medium finish 85+ points (stainless steel fermentation, 4 mos. in neutral oak) (Cellartracker.com)
Personal Review: Some nice Pink Lady apple and bright asian pear in this Saddleback Chardonnay. Very nicely rounded out wine.After being fermented in stainless steel this wine is rounded out by sitting in neutral French oak for 4 months. Great balanced acidity and structure. Lighter color and some floral rose and lavender on the nose. A great unoaked Chardonnay despite the fact that it spent time in a barrel. I did not take this wine with food.




Name: Veritas Sauvignon Blanc
Variety: Sauvignon Blanc
Region: Virginia
Year: 2012
Country:USA
Price: $22
Wine critic review: Varietal character is the essence of Sauvignon Blanc. The aroma is so distinctive--soft, fresh mown hay, gooseberries, lemony citrus, peach, and white flowers. Wow! Then taste the fresh, tart and mouthwatering flavors of sherbert, lime, grapefruit, passion fruit, honey and almonds with an ever so slight hint of flint chalkiness.(Old Dominion Wine)
Personal Review: Great balance of tartness and acidity. Bike bold, juicy grapefruit on the nose. But this is a sweet grapefruit- no grapefruit skins or membranes up in the mix (afterall, that is what makes a grapefruit sour and bitter- if you shed off all of the white membrane off a grapefruit its sweet and tart). Very light hay color which is decieving- this wine really brings bright, crisp, clean flavors. Great palate cleanser and for day drinking. An extremely versatile wine that is produced with a great balance of fruitiness and acidity. This was not taken with food.

Wednesday, April 24, 2013

Wine Dinner at Zeppoli's "West Coast Wine Showcase"

On Sunday evening, Zeppoli's of Blacksburg held a wine dinner for the Virginia Tech Geography of Wine students (in a separate part of the restaurant). For about $15, guests were able to feed on a buffet of assorted cheese and breads, manocotti, teriyaki chicken and rice (interesting choice), meatballs, and a greek inspired salad. I grabbed some manacotti and a few of the side items including a lot of cheese and bread in preparation for the tasting. Matthew Burch of Zeppoli's was our extremely friendly and knowledgeable host. He was so enthusiastic about wine that it made the dinner all the better! The seating was pretty packed- about 3-4 people per 2x2 foot table. The tasting was structured to go from drier wines to sweeter wines as expected. 




The first wine of the night was the Firesteed 2011 Pinot Gris from Oregon. Matthew Burch, the host of the wine tasting dinner, explained that in Oregon it is only proper to call it Pinot Gris (rather than the full term, Pinot Grigio). The price point of this wine was about $13.50. According to Burch's research, the alcohol content of this Pinot Gris is about 12.6 percent. Its a little bit lower than most of the other Pinot Gris I've had in the past. Burch's description of the wine was as follows: "Tropical aromas of kiwi and mago followed by flavors of perfectly-riper summer melon and citrus. With each return to the glass, the flavors expand on the palate with increasing complexity and texture." I smelled notes of honey and apricot mostly on this Pinot Gris. It was fairly pale yellow in color and didn't have much color density- not many whites I've come across have dense color like reds. I also smelled some starfruit and pineapple. This wine paired great with the mixed salad of white cheese (I think it was feta or gorgonzola), kalamata olives, vinegarette, lettuce, tomato, and other young fresh veggies. 






The next wine was the Lamplighter Chardonnay 2009 California. The price point for this wine was about $9.99. The alcohol percentage on this wine was about 13.5 percent. Burch's description read as follows: "Aromas and flavors of citrus balanced with tripical fruits of honey and apricot notes. With just enough vanilla oak and creaminess to know it's a California Chardonnay." The wine had aromas of vanilla, cloves, and other hints of floral scents. The wine itself did not have a very strong finish which was fairly disappointing. The color of this wine was blonde hay. After cleaning my palate a few times with some white bread, it still didn't come through as much as I had hoped. This chardonnay would probably have paired well with the meatballs, depending on what the protein base was. I'm assuming they were all beef meatballs. I didn't try them. I'd probably match this with some ground turkey meatballs or even a turkey burger with some lettuce, tomato, avocado, mayo, grilled red onion on a nice toasted kaiser roll. Maybe some sweet potato fries with some old bay seasoning. Most def. 




The next white wine was the White Knight Viognier 2011 Clarksburg. The price point on this wine was $11.99. It was light hay colored and had great texture. It was a very refreshing Viognier. I have to say that Viognier is one of my favorite whites. It has great body for a white and very tropical aromas. This had great scents of apple and strong pineapple and papaya flavors. Burch described it as the following: "With blonde color, stone fruit aromatics dominate this blend. Ripe peach skin, apricots, and hints of green apple aromas lean toward flavors of the similar description. This blend is medium weight with bright acidity to keep the finish refreshing. Tropical fruit sings throughout this wine from start to finish. A perfect summer sipper with your favorite cheese and fresh fruit." I don't think this was a compliment with anything like manacotti with marinara sauce. I would probably pair this with something that has an asian (like Thai) flare. Something with curry. I think that curry and something with a little spice will bring  out the tropical fruits and light crispness of this wine a lot more. At $11.99 I thought it was a pretty fair price for a Viognier. 







The last white of the mix was the Beringer 2011 Chenin Blanc from California. A nice Cali Chenin Blanc to finish up the California whites list. The flavors of this wine reminded me of autumn- subtle and sweet. The sugar content in this wine had a nice, quenching finish. Flavors that resonated in this wine included white cherry and crisp, tart royal gala apple. The price on this wine was $8.99- pretty decent especially with the 10 percent discount offer. The alcohol percent on this wine was 11 percent- again, not as high as I would have liked. It would have been nice if this wine brought a little bit more heat to balance the sweetness. Burch's description as as follows: "A well-balanced wine with aromas and flavors of crisp citrus, melon, and spicy ginger. It's meant to be enjoyed with a variety of foods, from Asian and Mexican foods to a casual backyard barbecue with friends." I would definitely pair this with some nice Mexican quesadillas with a variety of bell peppers (red, orange, and yellow) and some rich refried beans on the side. The food would probably need to have some hot spice to it- maybe some Siracha. Like I said, the food can be a little bit spicier when paired with this wine because its so thirst quenching and has a higher residual sugar content compared to the other whites. After the 4 selected white wines, Burch broke out the reds.




The first red of the tasting was the Simple Life Pinot Noir from 2011. Like the rest of the wines from this tasting, the Simple Life was from California. Burch was super excited about this wine because it was a decent Pinot Noir for the price point (only $12.99). I'd have to say that he was right. described this wine as follows: "Pleasantly with aromas of boysenberry, candied cherry, and baked apple highlighted by notes of baking spice. Flavors range from bright raspberry and lemon preserve to cherry cola accented with a bit of English toffee. Moderately light bodied, the soft tannins and fresh acidity strike a nice balance, creating a light but lingering finish. Pinot Noir pairs easily with a wide variety of foods both of lighter and richer fare." This wine had a nice red cranberry color and had a nice light clarity as with most Pinot Noir. This wine (if I remember correctly) was 8 percent Barbera, 8 percent Sangiovese, 4 percent Grenache, 2 percent Merlot, and 2 percent Tempranillo. Extremely blended- probably the most blended Pinot Noir I've had. It had medium acidity and medium tannins but very, very fruit forward. It had some scents of red bing cherries with a lil funk action. I'd say it was worth the $12.99 but it was definitely more New World for a Pinot Noir. I am a fan of Pinot Noir from the Burgundy region- much more Old World and better paired with buttery French cuisine. 


The second red on the list was a classic table wine. It had a nice balance of space and sweet-tarts. It kind of tasted like black cherries rolled around in standard top soil that you buy at Home Depot. But I don't want to discourage you- this is pretty standard and enjoyable Cab Sauv. Not all too exciting but a good standby all the same. Riven Rock Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 is from McFarland, California. The host described the wine has follows: "This Cabernet Sauvignon from California is an exceptional value and a perfect interpretation of what a traditional Cabernet Sauvignon should taste like- with a good flavor profile, light and drinkable but with a good body. Price point was pretty fair at around $9.99.


The Renwood Syrah 2008 Sierra Foothills was up next. This smelled of cassis, blackberries, had a sweet flare with an awkward back end. It was not as balanced as hoped- the tannin, acidic, and alcohol balance was off for sure. I'd say it needed more tannins, less alcohol, and less sugar. This wine would have been better old word style ie a little less fruit forward and a little more dry and smoky. The wine was described by the winemaker as having "classic aromas of berry jam and truffle. The wine has medium tannins, a refreshing acidity and a long finish. The fruit flavors dominate, and the oak character is subdued. This is a nice example of Syrah grown in the Sierra Foothills." James Laube from Wine Spectator, on the other hand, described the wine as "A pleasantly rustic and aromatic red, featuring supple plum, mineral, pebble, and roasted herb flavors that are medium-bodied and easy drinking. Drink now through 2019." Virginie Boone from Wine Enthusiast Magazine said it was "A great value, easy drinking Syrah from the Sierra Foothill's Zin Masters, Renwood, who have produced here a mouthful of blackberry and plum juiciness that is full and sweet. Pair with roasted beef or lamb for a succulent meal."


Cypress Vineyards was a great wine that would definitely pair well with Italian food. With about 13.5 percent alcohol at a $12.99 price point, this wine was fair in price and matched the food on my plate. It was a ruby colored wine with some notes of vanilla and wood chips. It exhibited medium tannins and was much drier than the previous wine (maybe that's because the one prior did have some residual sugar- or at least that's what I hypothesize). It was medium in spice and was not fruit forward. It was light to medium in density and was not all too clear- I'm assuming this is a trait of its age since it was a 2010. A new take on New World for a California winery- taking in easy on those big bold fruits (mild fruit is my preference). It was 80 percent Merlot, 16 percent Malbec, 2 percent Cab Sauv, and 2 percent Petit Sirah. According to the host, the wine was described as follows: "A garnet red color of medium density with hues indicative of full maturation. Fruit aromas of cherry, raspberry, and passion fruit are complemented by a bouquet of toasted oak and cocoa powder. A large portion of Malbec in the blend increases the fruit signature with a hibiscus character (slightly tart). The round texture and comfortable weight of this wine is followed by a sweet, mature finish. (this is something I didn't pick up on all too much). 2010 Cypress Vinyards Merlot would pair wonderfully with beef filets with a red wine sauce (really?) or barbecued ribs. This wine can be enjoyed in its youth or cellared up to 5 years." I would have considered buying this wine and storing it for a while- seeing if it would mellow out over the course of the suggested age period. I could see this wine pairing well with some clam chowder or something like a lentil stew over rice. Maybe some Afgan food. Alas, it suited my needs as a match for my manacotti.


The last wine was the Trentadue "Old Patch Red" Lot #34 2010 California. This was my favorite wine of the bunch so I'm glad it came last! The price point was $13.50 but it was definitely worth it. Trentadue used to just be growers and with time, they started handpicking certain lots and creating their own wine from it. They would then sell off the rest of their vineyards to be made into table wine. The host highlighted its French style. The wine had notes of cassis, cherry, and was fairly fruit forward. It was a very well structured and balanced wine. It had a nice balance of tannic and alcohol components. The wine was 41 percent Zin, 25 percent Syrah, 24 percent Carignane, and 10 percent Petit Syrah. I definitely smelled some plummy and deep fruit skins on this one! It was great. I regret not buying it (trying to save up to pay off that student loan debt, na mean?). The host found the wine to be described as "a delicious "bistro" style blend with abundant jammy berry flavors, black cherries and plum. Peppery and spicy (most definitely- it was fantastic) with a long juicy finish (true fact). Named in honor of the original 1986 estate plantings, this is very typical of the field blends traditionally produced by the Italian farming families that settled in Sonoma County in the early part of the 20th century. This versatile wine has rich, plummy fruit with hints of vanilla and red cherries (fo sho). The peppery spice and plummy fruit qualities were matched very well. The story behind the Trentadue vineyards also made this wine intriguing. It paired well with the gorgonzola, olive oil, and red pepper pita tapas we had. The wine really brought out the flavor of the cheese and accented the wasabi cheese (oh spicy!) very well.


Movie Review: Sideways




Wine Film Review
Film: Sideways
Setting: California, USA

Sideways follows Miles and Jack on a road trip to Wine country in California (around Santa Barbara County). Miles is an unhappy, fraught writer who turned into a middle school English teacher. He seems pretty distressed and displeased with where he is in his life. In his downtime, he has developed an intense passion for wine. He takes his past college roommate and comrade Jack, an actor, on an adventure before Jack gets married. A small bachelor party if you will. Both have different expectations around this trip. Miles is a consistent visitor to several of the wineries in the Santa Barbara area. Miles expects to relax, play some golf, and bond over some good wines with his friend Jack. Jack, on the other hand, is looking to drop his pants (for real, that literally all this character incessantly talks about in the movie), get laid, and party hard before getting married.  



Upon their arrival to the Santa Barbara County, Miles lectures Jack about Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. He tells Jack he doesn't like the way they handle Chardonnay in California. He describes it as having "too much oak and secondary malolactic fermentation". For Miles, this region is superior for Pinot Noir, one of the hardest and fussiest grapes to grow for winegrowers. It’s a grape that requires optimal growing conditions. This is probably why I’ve never come across them all too often during wine tastings. Even when I do taste Pinot Noir during tastings, I’m never blown away. Pinot Noir is typically a lighter-medium bodied, fruit-forward red wine. Pinot Noir is also Burgundy's most famous Noble grape. Pinot Noir from Burgundy cost a pretty penny- far too much for a broke college student like me. Anyway- back to the movie. In Santa Barbara County, the cold air from the pacific cooling down the fruits at night. As Pinot is a thin-skinned grape, it helps it grow and maintain its levels of sugar. 


When the two characters departed for Santa Barbara County, Jack opens a bottle of 1992 Byron while in the car. This is apparently a very rare California Champaign. This wine is about 100 percent Pinot Noir and is not produced anymore. That’s pretty crazy that it’s champagne that’s 100 percent Pinot Noir. I’m not even sure they get that swanky in Champagne Country. Some of the most expensive champagnes these days include the Krug Brut Vintage 1988 (blend of Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, and Chardonnay), Armand de Brignac (blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier), Salon Blanc de Blanc Le Mesnil-sur-Oger 1997 (Chardonnay blend), and Dom Perignon Rose 2002 (blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir). All of these bottles exceed the $300 price point and aren’t even 100 percent Pinot Noir.


In the movie, the main character Miles explains Jack that the color from red wine comes from the skin of the grape. When it comes to white wine, there is no skin contact during fermentation. There’s nothing really new about white Pinot Noir. It’s probably incredibly complicated when it comes to actually making white Pinot Noir but not when you think about it. White Pinot Noirs are very rare. I’ve never enjoyed a white Pinot Noir but apparently they are described as being seductive, perplexing, and extremely interesting. Sounds more like my friend’s description of his ex-girlfriend, not a rare wine… but I digress. A blush wine can also be made from Pinot Noir grapes. But as said before, a white Pinot Noir is made by removing the grape skins from the juice to produce what is called a 'blanc de noirs' (a white wine from red wine grapes). The larger the grape used the whiter the wine, due to the increased juice to skin ratio. However, nearly all the wines made from the Pinot Noir grape are red wines.



In the movie, the main character Miles also explains to Jack how to taste wine. First, the drinker is supposed to hold up and examine the wine in the light. Two key components to look out for are color and clarity. After examining the wine, the taster should look at color density but tipping the glass. This can provide information on how old the wine is. This is especially true for red wines. After the wine gets a full visual examination (seriously), the drinker should then smell the wine and get a good idea of all the scents and notes the wine has to offer. Swirling helps. Then sniff. Then swirl again. Repeat this for as long as you like. After using your x-ray vision and big ole shnoz, the taster can finally, well, taste the wine. 



Other wine related movie highlights:

  • When the two characters meet Stephanie at a winery. They have a taste of the estate Chardonnay. Miles finds it "quaffable" and far from transcendent. Jack, obviously hitting on her says he likes it. Then they taste a straight Cabernet Franc, which apparently is a rare variety in the region (vineyard located in Santa Maria, California). The wine is described as a silver medal winner at Paso Robles. Miles finds it not very good and describes it as "hollow, flabby, overripe…” Stephanie agrees with Miles. Then finally taste a Syrah
  • Later in the day, Miles remember drinking a bottle of '95 Opus One during a pic nic with his ex-wife. He mixed it with artichokes and salmon but "didn't care".
  • On their double date, Maya drinks a glass of a Fiddlehead Sauvignong Blanc aged 12 months in French Oak. They go on drinking a Whitcraft Winery 2001(Pinot noir from Santa Maria Valley), what appear to be a "Sea Smoke", a bottle of "Kistler", a Pommard (French wine).
  • After the date, they head to Stephanie's. Maya and Miles are allowed to open any bottle they want except a Richebourg. They settle on a bottle of "Andrew Murray". They mention the 61 Cheval Blanc owned by Miles. Maya mentions it's peaking. Her passion for wine started drinking a '88 Sassicaia. Maya and Miles go on a philosophical discussion about Pinot Noir and wine while drinking the bottle they opened. Miles admires Pinot for his difficulty to be cultivated and the constant attention it needs, while Maya admires wine as a living and constantly evolving thing.
  • After his issues with Maya, Jack decides to take Miles to tour of "Frass Canyon" winery.
  • Spoiler alert! Finally, the last bottle mentioned is the '61 Cheval Blanc that Miles drinks in a Styrofoam cup in a fast food restaurant.

Saturday, April 20, 2013

Wine Tastings Week April 15 and Grape Varietal Blog Entry featuring Sangiovese



Name: Black Box Merlot
Variety:Merlot
Region: California
Year: 2011
Country:USA
Price: $4.99 (2 standard glasses in small box)
Wine critic review: This wine's lavish red fruit aromas introduce a rich palate of plum and black cherry flavors tinged with smoky vanilla and cinnamon-spiced oak nuances. It finishes long and warm with resolved tannins and sweet red currant notes. (http://www.blackboxwines.com)
Personal Review: Smells of cherry and cassis. Great deep color (but I think thats because it has a hint of Petit Syrah in it). Awesome tannin structure once the box is already opened. Mild acidity and decent finish. Pretty standard Merlot. Great table wine and no trace of detectible residual sugar. This wine would probably go great with pasta dishes and grilled meats.No food was taken during this tasting.




Name: Black Box Cabernet Sauvignon
Variety: Cabernet Sauvignon
Region:California
Year:2011
Country: USA
Price:4.99 (2 standard glasses in small box)
Wine critic review:Offering a lush h display of dark berries, our Cabernet Sauvignon’s smooth tannins create a soft, lingering finish. Spicy cinnamon and vibrant black currant aromas accompany warm notes of vanilla and toasty oak for an irresistible, approachable glass of wine (http://www.blackboxwines.com)
Personal Review: No traceable floral notes. Fairly fruit forward with some hints of bell pepper and sandalwood. No oaked flavors- decent balanced acidity. I prefer the Merlot since it has a little bit more spice and body. This would probably go swell with filet mignon, roast duck, pork tenderloin or mushroom ravioli. No food was taken with this wine!




Name:Turning Leaf
Variety: Riesling
Region:California
Year:2009
Country: USA
Price:$9.99
Wine critic review: Soft and pretty, featuring apricot and peach fruit with light floral notes. Not much in the way of acidity- finishes soft. (Shop Merwins)
Personal Review: Notes of apricot, apple, pear, and a little hint of pine apple. Fairly citrus and definitely some detectible residual sugar. Lighter bodied wine with great grassy hay color. Blonde color for sure. Riesling wines are dynamic, food-favoring wines and so this would probably go swell with chicken or fish. I'd be daring enough to pair it with a nice California burger on a hot day. No food was taken with this wine.



Name:Wilson Daniels Sauvignon Blanc
Variety: Sauvignon Blanc
Region:Central Coast
Year:2010
Country: USA
Price:$7.95
Wine critic review: Orange blossom and citrus permeate the aromas. Alluring flavors of orange and grapefruit dominate the palate. Bright acidity balances the plush mouthfeel, resulting in a clean finish.(Vintage Cellar, Blacksburg VA)
Personal Review: Not crazy about it. Not a very strong aroma and didn't share the unique fruits that were used in its description (more tropical, grapefruit scents). Great palate cleanser (really! for me at least). I'd bet that this wine paired with some Tapas would really bring out the citrus tastes its described with. Light bodied and nice blonde color. Weak alcohol and could have had a better balance of acidity. Would probably pair nice with wasabi cheese. No food was taken with this wine.



Name:Ksana
Variety: Bonarda
Region:Mendoza
Year:2008
Country: Argentina
Price:$9.95
Wine critic review: The bouquet is floral and lightly jammy, with berry aromas and a savory note or two. To the uninitiated, this is a great introduction to Bonarda. Finishes solid. Very sweet, berry smell with some rooty undertones. Kind of dry, makes your lips pucker. (Vintage Cellar, Blacksburg VA)
Personal Review: I love Argentinian wines. This tastes like cherries rolled around on the bottom of my shoe. But I like it. Fruit forward, so maybe throw in some plums and blackberries. Yeah- like jammy dirt. That's the jam. Would probably be great as a Sangria with some apples, oranges, and pineapple. Solid jammy, fruity, plummy flavors with a little peppery spice on top. Delish with chicken even though I don't eat chicken. Would probably pair well with a lighter casserole dish or vegetable medley. No food was taken with this wine.



Grape Varietal Blog Entry #3: Sangiovese

  Sangiovese is grown notably in places such as Montalcino, Emilia-Romagna, Sicily, Abruzzo and Marche regions. Argentina has also been found to grow Sangiovese in the Mendoza region. However, the principal region where Sangiovese is grown is Tuscany. Sangiovese is the defining grape of Italy. Archeological theory suggests that this varietal originated in Romagna in the Town of Santarcangelo. This is where the Romans supposedly would store the wine in Grotte Tufacee (or really awesome grotto caves) inside the Mons Jovis. (1) Including the major regions that grow Sangiovese, the total worldwide acreage is about ~175,000 acres. (2) Sangiovese occupies more vineyard acres than any other variety in Italy, totaling 155,000 acres under vine. (2) It is the most widely grown grape in Italy, comprising about 10% of the vineyard area. (7) Some versions of Sangiovese and Barbera pop up in California and elsewhere.(4) The Cal-Ital movement in California has also led to growing plantings of Sangiovese. By 2011, Sangiovese was the 17th most planted red variety in California. (12) Sangiovese mutates easily, and therefore has many clones. The most notable being Brunello, of Brunello di Montalcino fame. (5)
Some common descriptors of tart cherry, red plum, strawberry, fig, roasted pepper, tomato, leather, clay, brick, tobacco, smoke, oregano, thyme, dried roses, and potpourri. (3) It has high acidity and a thicker skin. While being a thick skinned grape, Sangiovese has a slightly higher tannin content but this is usually because it is barrel aged in oak. Oaked Sangiovese has these higher tannin qualities.  They are known for their high acidity and smooth texture. It is these characteristics that make a Sangiovese-based wine very food friendly. Not unexpectedly, they pair well with tomato sauce based pastas, pizzas, and dishes and can also go well with roasted chicken and grilled meats. (8) Foods that are often paired with Sangiovese are mild to strong to very strong cheeses, seafood in heavier cream sauces, particularly if they are red or brown. Salmon, poultry, game bird, heartier pastas, beef dishes, barbecues, duck, goose, grilled pork, Italian sausage, pork roast, lamb, cold cuts, and a solid good pizza are also good matches for this varietal. (4)
Sangiovese Grape; Source: http://images.quickblogcast.com





Sangiovese is savory. Because of its ability to be a chameleon, Sangiovese wines offer a wide range of tastes from very earthy and rustic. This is the case with many Chianti Classico as well. Sangiovese can also have round and fruit-forward tastes as well. As said before, Sangiovese is a versatile grape that spans the entire length of the quality spectrum, from low-end Chianti to top-shelf Chianti Classico. (6) If not cared for correctly, the grape will produce a wine overly acidic with unripe fruit flavors. (5) It requires a long growing season, as it's early to bud and late to ripen. In cooler years, these tendencies can lead to high acidities and harsh, unripe tannins. (7) Not very pleasing to the palate to say the least. Regardless of where it’s grown, it always exhibits cherry flavors with more subtle notes of tomato. (2)  These are two of my favorite things so naturally, Sangiovese is typically a good choice for my palate.

There is a tendency to want to “improve” Sangiovese by adding small components of other grapes. So many wine makers do this and its not just with the Sangiovese grape. Cabernet Sauvignon, for example, adds rich saturation and structure to Sangiovese’s thinner appearance. (6) Merlot can add "lushness" and softness to Sangiovese's sometimes acidic, "thorny" traits. (6) The problem is, winemakers are not always legally allowed to blend other grapes, depending on laws determined by local authorities. For example, in Chianti Classico it is legal to do so; its wines are defined as being minimum 80% Sangiovese. (6)





Sangiovese also plays a major role in the huge category of wines known as Super Tuscans. These were the beloved varietals of the wine world from the 90s through the early 2000s, produced by some of Italy's historically significant wineries.(7) Since late last year a prosecutor has been investigating whether some of the major producers of the wine,  brunello di Montalcino, have been violating the laws that determine whether their product can bear that name, the most prestigious among all Tuscan wines. (11) The prosecutor has impounded more than a million bottles from some of the most prominent Italian winemakers. This includes Antinori and Frescobaldi. They will remain impounded until he determines whether they used unapproved techniques or grapes other than brunello, the local name for sangiovese, supposedly to give their idiosyncratic wine a broader international appeal. (11) Hot dang- who would have thought?





Some have said that the ultimate expression of Sangiovese is the 100% Sangiovese from the Montalcino area in Tuscany, known as Brunello di Montalcino. Montalcino is a relatively warm and dry micro climate where the Sangiovese grape can experience a longer growing period than virtually anywhere else in Italy. (7) Brunello di Montalcino must be at least 70% Sangiovese. Brunello DOCG regulations require that the wines be made exclusively from this Brunello clone, and that the wines be aged a minimum of two years in barrel (modernists tend to use more French barriques, while more traditional producers mainly use the old Slovinian botti), and four years in total before going to market. (7)






The hilly soil and the weather conditions of Tuscany are ideal for grape growing and, with the passing centuries, the numerous types of grapes grown gave rise to some rare and much loved varieties. Nowadays, the most grown variety is the noble Sangiovese, which is often combined with small amounts of locally grown Cabernet Sauvignon, Canaiolo, Ciliegiolo and other grapes into  blends such as the Brunello di Montalcino, Morellino di Scansano, Carmignano and the signature Tuscan wines, the Chianti and Chianti Classico. These are probably are the best known Italian wines in the world. Other grapes grown here are the Mammolo, Malvasia, Colorino, Raspirosso, Gamay, Grand Noir, Barbera, Moscatello, Aleatico and Vernaccia, among others.(9)


 


Tuscany accounts for over thirty DOC and half a dozen of DOCG wines. In addition to the great, well-known and appreciated reds, the local production includes a few distinguishable whites, the most notable among them being, without doubt, the Vernaccia di San Gimignano. Other delicious whites include the Bianco d'Elba, from the Elba Island, Bianco di Bolgheri, Vermentino, Bianco di Pitigliano and Bianco di Val di Nievole. (Bianco in Italian means, "white"). (9) Tuscan whites are largely indifferent. Most are made from the lackluster trebbiano grape. Trebbiano is valued for use in cheap table wine and as part of the traditional Chianti blend. One Tuscan white worth noting is Vernaccia (wine and grape) from the San Gimignano region. At least it’s better than trebbiano. (10) 

Sources:
(1)http://finewinesource.net/tag/blend/
(2) http://winefolly.com/review/guide-to-sangiovese-wine/
(3) http://www.thewinedoctor.com/advisory/tasteclassicgrapesred.shtml
(4) Boyer, John (2010-01-07). Drink This Now!: Step by step lessons for the aspiring wine connoisseur (Kindle Locations 3373-3374).  . Kindle Edition.
(5) http://winestore.strykersonoma.com/sangiovese-c31.aspx
(6) http://www.winemag.com/Wine-Enthusiast-Magazine/March-2011/Sangiovese/
(7) http://www.huffingtonpost.com/richard-jennings/sangiovese-italys-most-ub_b_1343854.html
(8) http://www.wine-road.com/education/grape-varieties/sangiovese-grape.php
(9) http://www.winecountry.it/regions/tuscany/
(10) http://topics.nytimes.com/topics/reference/timestopics/subjects/w/wines/tuscany/index.html